Thanks for following our successful 2012 Everest Expedition. Tom and myself and Bali and Dawa summitted and returned with all fingers and toes. Here is a summit photo gallery:
https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/102622370056553943878/albums/5752635077623889073
(Publicly visible, no account needed.)

On the south side 2012 Project Himalaya Everest Expedition Wasfia Nazreen succeeded, being the second Bangladesh female and 4th person from Bangladesh to summit, so ticking off one more of the Seven Summits. She was the first Bangladeshi to summit Aconcagua (and summitted with us). Sadly Raffi and Sam has unusual health issues and didn't summit. Neither did Chris the leader, who got sick with diarrhea and vomiting en route to the summit from the dirty conditions on South Col and had to turn back. A huge thanks though to Chris for so ably leading and managing the expedition.

Mountain Trip's 2012 Everest expedition had safe success as usual, under the capable leadership of Scott Woolums. Expedition Himalaya and myself provide the crew and logistics for the team and the crew especially appreciate the expedition's generous tips. Thanks, team!

Back at ABC

Hi everyone - it is great to be back at Base Camp and back to internet of sorts.

Yes, I am still coughing up rather vile stuff although at a lesser rate; if only it only looked like my snot, I would be happier – don’t you love the comparison. I can't talk now, stupidly forgetting my face mask today (I know what you are thinking...).. Yes, I am horribly sick and I knew it was bad but then again I did summit Everest on one of the best days of the season and did lug up my Canon 5D and a few lenses, so hopefully have some good panoramas. I started from ABC sick, knowing that it wouldn’t get better on the way up, so a calculated gamble, and one that I really did want to take. I really did want to get summit #5 and get those photos.

Probably if I was that sick in a western country, coughing blood etc with oxygen saturation levels in the 60’s (%) I would be in hospital quick-smart. But here there is no hospital and only your own or friend’s judgements. I did spend the evening on oxygen at ABC, the last in our tanks, and that did assist a bit. I arrived at ABC more exhausted than I have ever been in my life but there was nobody else to carry the oxygen bottles and tent etc I used, and still feel guilty for having to leave a few things up there. The rubbish up there is almost unimaginable, but once you know the effort of getting up there and that most groups have at least two sherpa loads carried up, some more, the possibility of carrying everything back down in one go just doesn’t add up. And heading up that high again after summitting – a few of the toughest climbing sherpas can perhaps, but most are glad to be alive and would rather not step foot above North Col if they can help it. It doesn’t help that most of the climbing members can't or won't carry more that the oxygen bottle they are using and their own personal kit – which is quite tough enough for them anyway.

I am hoping that the lower altitudes of Zhangmu and Kathmandu will clear it quickly, otherwise I will be dosing on drugs soon (thanks, Helen). Strangely it doesn't seem to be contagious, at least none of our crew have picked it up after me.

Tom climbed to the summit also coughing, but not with the red-tinged gunk, so also pulled one out on reserves, well done!

The sherpa supporting Tom was Dawa Gelje (different from the main sirdar on the south side!) who proved to be an excellent ABC cook (yet again) and caring climbing sherpa with several summits now, he will get an extra bonus. Bali accompanied myself and made his first actual Everest summit, although he has carried rather a lot of loads to the 8300m camp.

And the summit? Reaching the summit was glorious but it is a long, tough and dangerous climb to get there, even from 8210m (actual) so only around 640m, but over difficult terrain. Perhaps that is better a LONG, TOUGH and DANGEROUS CLIMB. More on that sometime.

So we are happy here in BC, happy that a Landcruiser should be turning up early tomorrow to take us to Zhangmu.

Jamie from BC , only 5150m

We are at 7650m, was a tough climb. Windy but the forecast is good for tomorrow. (Luigi the crazy Italian lives, saved by tibetan rescue team).

The north col team have had a scenic trek up but it is snowy at abc now. Tom is sleeping at 7000m, all ok. Jamie

As easy as ABC

Jo, leader of the North Col team writes:

It’s blowing a hoolie, there are dirt devils in the air and a windchill factor to freeze the glorious essentials off a polar bear..... but in the swaying blue light of Jamie’s double skin mess tent, all is warm , cosy and yak shaped here at Base Camp, North Side. For the heat I’m told we should give thanks to the Russians and their toasty undertable super calor (gas) fragolistic heating device. Ancient but functioning technology which is all that matters after a chill-searing excursion to the ‘other’ blue tent.

Although being here at Base Camp acclimatizing and preparing to go higher up the mountain feels like a starting point its actually the middle of a long and fascinating journey so far.

The group – 3 ABC-ers, 3 North Col-ers and me – came together a short lifetime ago in the sunny chaos of Kathmandu. It was all fairly frenetic unpacking / packing, scrambling for last minute gear grabs, sorting out paperwork etc but rectified by a few gentle hours soaking up the karma and finding some inner calm at Bhoudhanath (and a few cheeky beers of course).

Then to Tibet: yes sir / no sir; no speaking in line; visa order only; Americans to the side – the breathless cold of airport immigration where guidebooks are searched and some are confiscated ("you have a wrong history!") then finally out into the wide blue skies and smooth new tarmac of the Lhasa highway.

Since then we’ve experienced numerous WOW moments all jiggling for attention amongst the check-posts and the charms of numerous government hotels with their showers of a maybe hot, maybe cold nature and often challenging menus (chicken paws anyone?). So the WOW moments.... the Jokhang temple at lunch time emptied of lens-hugging, jostling Chinese tourists; bright beaming grins and giggles from the broad handsome faces of local Tibetan traders as we fumbled and blustered for bargains in the Barkhor; the peace and beauty of Shegar monastery’s colourful temples perched high above the dirty, ragged town and the warm humor of the monks; the heart-stopping panorama of what seemed like the entire Himal stretched out across the shimmering blue horizon from the Pang La; blue sheep scattering across the high plains and the poignancy of the memorials dotted here and there to fallen mountaineers........... it’s been a trip of many parts so far and yet it feels like we’re only just beginning. Tomorrow we set out up the trail to Interim Camp at 5750m – a plod up alongside the Rongbuk glacier before turning off steeply left to the E Rongbuk and new vistas. If the weather is kind there’ll be less wind, not so much snow and  enough breaks in the cloud to spy the huge peaks that guard this valley. We rest and recover there for a second day to prepare mentally and physically for the final day’s hike alongside the icy spikes and spires up to ABC. Not easy, but we’re learning quickly......

Jo Chaffer – leader

North Col and ABC trek team

Above, subjectively Base Camp has fewer tents than previous years.

Some of the team on an acclimatization trip 200m above BC: James, Debbie, Jo (leader), Mike and Jena

 

First some south side thoughts. Alan Arnette (.com) has a good summary with support from blogs. Certainly it is an unusual season, although every season does seem to be in its own way. I also heard of five injuries to the rope fixers and think it is not worth pushing the route up until the rockfall danger has subsided. Perhaps with the coming snows it will suddenly dramatically change; but I hope the avalanche danger doesn’t suddenly increase. It certainly is a game of patience, and perhaps the soundest plan is having everything ready at C2 to pull the trigger. In general Everest is a game of patience and at this stage there is still plenty of time so I see no reason yet to push risk levels.

 

Luckily all our teams and sherpas are safe, and I am thankful for everybody’s good judgment there. Let's keep everyone safe...

 

On the north side, Tom and Bali and Pasang Gyelu are now in ABC, the sherpas have carried a load to North Col (7000m) and Tom is having a rest day in preparation for going to sleep on the Col tomorrow. The plan is to spend a couple of nights there. After he returns to ABC, let's see what the forecast tells us. However more than likely we will return to Base Camp for a quick recovery then only in later May head up for the summit push.

 

It seems most teams are now at ABC and with sherpas pushing loads up. This season’s fixed ropes are still only as far as 7900m (I haven't heard otherwise) and so most teams will push supplies up as far as there. It may be that last year’s ropes are still OK, and some sherpas simply use them to drop oxygen at 8210m, but I feel there is still some small but real risk there. Hopefully the rope fixers will return soon instead.

 

Are we/everybody behind? Certainly we are not ahead of the game, but it is a stretch to say that teams are behind, and North Col is fully loaded by most teams. It is still relatively early days and it just takes one or a couple of good days of hard work and all of a sudden everything is in place. Anyway, myself, Phil Crampton and others prefer to summit later rather than earlier. It is often warmer and therefore just that much less difficult.

 

We now have the North Col and ABC trek group here in ABC, and they are on their third day of acclimatizing here. Tomorrow they (and myself) will head up to Interim for a couple of nights, then ABC. Jo Chaffer might write more soon.

 

Everest BC

Above, Kami extracts the last of three pizzas from our wonderful gas oven. We have fresh bread too, a pleasant luxury.

Our camp, the white and blue tents, and Everest – Chomolungma – behind.

 

Pizza! I promised not too many more Tom and food photos, but we did enjoy that first meal back at BC. Although we thought we felt good enough at ABC, 6400m, returning to the relatively thicker air, slightly more than 50% of the sea level oxygen (!), at 5150m, feels really good. Sleeping the night through unbroken. The trick is to exercise enough. The trouble is Phil and the team at Altitude Drunkies are good friends, enough said!

 

Today, our North Col and ABC trek teams arrived after a journey through Lhasa, and everyone is fit and healthy. We have had a great meal here, quite a change from the Chinese food and so everyone is also surprisingly comfortable at our homely BC.

Base Camp days slip by

Above: Tom at ABC where our hand washing water froze even during a sunny day, and Tom climbing above the colourful tents of ABC

Back at BC now: with our USB internet stick not working again today, I paid a visit to Mr Grant over at Phil’s camp, and as always was sucked into a vortex of chat, lies and jokes and more damn lies. I have to report that Grant is still wearing the same blue (green around the gills) t-shirt as yesterday, that still smells the same as it did the day before, before his wash. What is that manly odour one might ask?

Not that we are entirely odour-free. Seemingly we must be somewhat comfortable with ourselves though as the majority of us didn’t need to shower the first day available, what is one more day after a week without a scrub? Well, either use deodorant religiously, or without you probably reach peak smell on the second day or so, and then it probably doesn’t get much worse after that, especially if you change your next to skin garments (ok, your gruts) within the week. Despite the bravado and the laziness, it does feel good to change into clean clothes though. It is one of those things that perhaps we really should factor in a little quicker when returning to the possibility of a real shower. Of course, none of us have partners up here otherwise there might be more rigorous scrubbing, or greater howls of indignation.

Apparently Grant was awarded blog of the day by Alan Arnette but we can't read each other’s blog, nor many other friends, as that sort of free expression is limited where we are. At least we still have alcohol. I am amazed Phil’s team does though. I hope he has just ordered it by the tanker this time. It was a little embarrassing to find the beer I thought we had was in fact up at ABC, luckily last year’s Chateau Cardboard has aged well and we didn’t have to delve further into the puja rum and whiskey. We will have to restock for visitors though. Tomorrow’s job.

With all our meals provided the days can be filled with promises of walks – “exercise every day here otherwise you will deteriorate” as I say, and after trying to pry out gossip tidbits about other teams then it comes to analyzing weather. While detailed paid forecasts have their place, and I will use them high on the mountain because I don’t have direct net access, there is a lot of free info on the net. Most crucially with either it is easy to get caught up in the day to day wind speeds (will our ABC tents handle it?) and miss the bigger picture. Even with a set of numbers or graphs showing the dropping wind speeds, the more elegant understanding is of the real jet stream pattern as it kinks and snakes above us. Or rather in the last period has straightlined above us. Now with the more usual curved Roberson waves (hope I have my technical term correct there) appearing, I can start to make a better guess about the longer term trends again.

I have refused to be drawn so far on the extent of the low winds window coming up but perhaps within the next day or two, it will be fairly obvious. What most people know now though is the coming period of lesser winds (with greater afternoon cloud and perhaps sprinklings of snow) is the time to move oxygen up to Camp 3 (8210m) in preparation, and this is the biggest job of the climbing sherpas prior to the summit push.

And what of the rest of the day? For me it is easy, emails about trips still flow in, and with Kim exploring the upper reach of Mustang and Luke at Shishapangma more or less out of contact, there are plenty to work on. Of other people I am not sure but that exercise doesn't happen often enough. Perhaps tomorrow!

To Interim

We have just been on an acclimatization trek up to ABC (Advanced Base Camp at ~6400m) and back to base camp over nearly a week. Although we planned to go up to North Col it was cold and windy, and so bailed on that idea. Still, it was very worthwhile acclimatization.

Here are a couple of photos of Tom at our rough and ready Interim Camp (IC ~5800m) where we stayed a couple of nights to break the altitude jump.

Heading up to ABC

I promise this is the last “Tom eating food” photo (for at least a week)!

We just had a wonderful meal, a chicken sizzler on a sizzling plate even, and then our own personal apple pie.

And a couple of other vignettes. Our crew are dedicated, Dorje just returned from a hunt around on the glacier with a bag full of ice so we can keep some meat cold in our ice box. Hopefully we will have just as superb meals at ABC.

We had a snow flurry today, Tom’s washing was frozen and covered in snow!

We all had hot showers though, the second since reaching base camp. The sherpa crew even showered; I am afraid to ask the Tibetans though. And that makes the second since leaving Kathmandu, we didn’t shower or even change undies for the week on the way in. Too much info, I can hear, but there is a reality about expedition life, or at least the getting to base camp part. I really hope frozen undies are as close to anything like that we get.

Our plan

Tom and myself are going to head up to 7000m slowly then return to BC to recover.

22 Apr – trek to Interim ~5700m

23 Apr – rest Interim ~5700m

24 Apr – trek to ABC ~6380m

25 Apr – ABC

26 Apr – ABC

27 Apr – ABC?

28 Apr – to North Col

29 Apr – North Col

30 Apr – down to ABC

1 May – back to Everest BC

We won't be taking a laptop so don’t expect any communications for the period. I might post occasional one line blog entries using my special phone; no photos or anything else. And I might not!

Geek post

You are warned, read beyond at your peril.

I absolutely love my new Canon 5D mark iii camera. While the 5D mark ii was a good camera, this is a step up in all ways. The focusing is much improved, with a large array of points rather than only nine, and is faster, and accessing all the options is just a button away, I can even change focus methods with the camera against the eye. The viewfinder is better (100%), the screen on the back too, high ISO results better, and subjectively the photos overall look slightly better. I have been posting barely or untouched jpegs from the camera as my processing software has yet to catch up, I can't yet process the raw shots. However after reading a scientific comparison (dxomark.com) it is clear that Nikon has the lead with quality of sensor in their new D800, and not just in the not so important megapixels, but critically in colour sensitivity and dynamic range (i.e. retaining detail between the lightest and darkest bits of a scene). Perhaps surprisingly, it comprehensively outperforms the new Canon, and while I won't be switching brands anytime soon, wedding photographers and others who can afford to switch, might, the differences are actually noticeable.

Enough! I will be back in touch at the beginning of May. - Jamie

Rongbuk day trip

Acclimatizing to altitude has two basic components. The first is going up slowly enough that you don’t get serious altitude sickness, which is High Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE) or High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE). That is the reason we took a week to reach base camp (5150m), rather than two days, which the drive could take.

The component now which matters to us is getting stronger at altitude, which is also a process that takes days, indeed weeks and seems to be helped by exercising every day. Although there is saying, “Climb high, sleep low”, this is simplistic and if we really followed the 300m a day gain in altitude guideline, we would actually take around 9-10 days to reach 5150m, indeed our normal trek itinerary on the south side. So here we are heading down in altitude for the first few days trips, rather than higher.

Yesterday we headed down to visit Rongbuk Monastery and most of the crew joined for part of the way too. It turned out to be a very special experience thanks to the nuns of the monastery, and the generosity of a Tibetan guide we met previously.

Everything is going well, perhaps more photos this evening - Jamie

Our Puja

19 April: Chilly! Kami the BC manager and cook holding the thermometer, although last year we definitely had colder at a similar time. Our heater with the double-skinned dining tent is actually too warm in the evenings.

We had our puja to show respect for the mountain, even though we cannot see it from our sheltered base camp. Karsang officiated, chanting sonorously, and the prayer flags rose well. The chosen tipple was Johnny Walker probably because of the monk red label, which also matches the crew jackets.

After lunch we visited the Altitude Junkies team where the beer and wine was flowing, “limit 3 units” for afternoon tea according to Phil, because they were still recovering from their rather more alcoholic puja the previous day. Grant has a clip on his website, drinking a beer while doing a headstand. He fell asleep in his tent later, no sleeping bag even. Hair of the dog was the rallying cry the morning after.

 

Grant also managed to count all the climbers, yes, the day prior when he wasn’t seeing double. In summary there are around 109 foreign climbers, around 101 climbing sherpas spread between perhaps 16 expeditions. This compares with around 450 foreign climbers and an equal approx 450 climbing sherpas on the south side, and perhaps 50 expeditions (I am guessing Alan Arnette has the exact figures).

Certainly I consider the north side slightly less dangerous and if climbing with a good commercial outfit, the chance of success is similar, so we feel fortunate. Additionally with less pressure to summit in the first low wind window, the mountain should be not too crowded. Let's see.

Tom and myself are still acclimatizing in Base Camp and have a another day here before heading up. More tomorrow, providing our internet is working...

 

There she is

Above, Everest.

Our Landcruiser driver, Purna, has a genuine warmth, and his vehicle that worn comfortableness of the decorated seat covers, although still rides well. It was only 3 hours drive from Tingri to base camp; I’ll spare you the video I shot en route.

The crew warmly welcomed us, more about them tomorrow.

 

 

Journey in reflections

Above: Hanging out in Nyalam

Jamie: Cho Oyu memories

 

For repeat Tibet climbers getting to the mountain seems to be a chore, suffering Zhangmu, Nyalam and Tingri.

Personally, I like the time to unwind and to catch up with friends. So what if we suffer the culinary delights of CTMA’s carefully selected restaurants and don’t get to shower until base camp. We do now get to sleep in dust-free rooms and comfy beds, and there is always yak steak available elsewhere.

 

Zhangmu is about getting across the border. For the climbers that is just a case of a thorough search through our bags. For the sherpas they have to unload the Nepal truck with our several tons of supplies, get the drums and bags and gas cylinders carried across and x-rayed, then loaded into a Chinese truck, so a busy day.

 

At Nyalam, with the stress of the Zhangmu border crossing over, the various sherpa crews and Tibetan helpers relax in the sun (above) and when the afternoon snow comes, move into the smoky teahouses, a chance to catch up with friends who work for different companies, make the connections again.

 

The black-topped road is a delight but Tingri is still a dusty dump, crumbling mud buildings with shaggy dogs and rubbish lining the road. Beware of even looking at the scallywag kids or taking their photo, they then pounce and wrap themselves around you legs pleading for money or chocolate, and if you display the slightest softness, they won't let go. The only thing that has changed is the clean and almost dust-free room. So the joy is getting out to climb the hill nearby, a chance to stretch the legs and take photos with Cho Oyu as a stunning backdrop...

 

 

 

 

De-stressing

Above: warming up in a Tingri teahouse where we had fried yak meat for dinner.

 

We have spent a couple of nights at Nyalam and a couple at Tingri; we will reach Everest Base Camp on Tuesday.

Drinking tea, wandering around the towns, exercising has been relaxing, a welcome respite from the multi-expedition preparation phase.

We have survived the dogs, but have always stuck together in the evenings, and with assistance from buffs and masks, have survived the dust and dry air, no coughs yet.

More from base camp soon! Jamie

 

 

On the road

Our Project Himalaya Everest expedition from Tibet has started, we are on the road now. Driving out of Kathmandu is a dirty affair, fumes, dust and noise, and while some sections of the road have been widened, it is still a game of dodgem’s around weaving  motorbikes, cows, rice threshing and potholes. Character, and that is what these photos are. The old Nepal of ancient Toyota Corollas with a hint of more recent artistry and bolder self-expression. (And by the way, the airport taxis are going to be replaced sometime next year, apparently).

 

Crossing to Zhangmu in China reinforces how much further Nepal is standing still, which in reality is falling behind. On the Nepal side we ate lunch 1km away while our border rep got the passports stamped for us. As we actually passed the immigration office, there was a truck we had to walk around; no compulsory pass through system. We didn’t even see the office, no official actually checked us against our passport. In contrast China starts from the middle of the friendship bridge, and that is where the first check is, passport against the paper visa, line up in the exact order as the visa is written, only then are we allowed further where we are watched to the immigration building entrance. This time there was no temperature check (for SARS) but our luggage was x-rayed and we had to empty out every personal bag. Tom was asked why he was carrying “The Female Brain” (my book) and even had a photo of a temple in Kathmandu deleted from his camera because there was a Dalai Lama photo vaguely visible. The official gave up looking through my 5000 photos on my laptop.

 

While China in the form of Zhangmu is definitely less dirty, it isn’t clean or sterile. The toilet in the hotel room doesn’t work, it didn’t last year in the same room either. The streets still have shop shacks but we didn’t get far enough up the road to see the seedy brothels and pigs trotter restaurants, it is raining. Mid-afternoon we looked back down valley to blue sky but it is now steady, feeling like it might not stop. Nothing alarming, but not just a shower.

 

It is going to take six days of leisurely driving to reach Everest Base Camp, with two nights at Nyalam and the same at Tingri so that we can acclimatize, arrive there without falling prey to altitude sickness (AMS – acute mountain sickness). The sherpa crew who are genetically adapted to altitude as the Tibetans are will go ahead and set up the base camp for our arrival. Luxury!

 

I have posted on Facebook too, however these are likely the last posts for a while as I will be switching to a China mobile sim, no fb, no blogging. Let's see if Instagram can post to Facebook though (the new Instagram for Android...) and I do have some ways around to test.

 

Jamie with Tom and the crew